History of the Imperial Baths
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Photo above: The family pool in Heringsdorf, built in 1908/1909 and burned down in 1963, archive Hans Jürgen Merkle
Journey through the centuries
The imperial baths - Ahlbeck, Heringsdorf and Bansin - can look back on an exciting and eventful history. At least since the so-called "Imperial Period" from 1871, Heringsdorf and Ahlbeck, and from 1897 also Bansin, were pioneers in the development of modern bathing. This ascent was made possible by outstanding personalities who significantly shaped the cultural life of the three bathing resorts. The beautiful location and the unity of the architecture are still very attractive today.
The chronology on this page was created in close cooperation with the local historians and the historical association of the imperial baths. It is (only) limited to the most important tourist information. The history of the districts of Gothen, Alt Sallenthin, Neu Sallenthin, Sellin and Dorf Bansin as well as the now no longer recognizable districts of Neukrug and Neuhof, which were the starting points for the development of the seaside resorts, were also taken into account.
First mentioned as Salentyn. The place came into the possession of the Grobe Premonstratensian monastery near Usedom as an object of exchange. The monastery exchanged its property near Gützkow with that of the knight Tamme von Horn on Usedom. The document was issued on December 13, 1254 in Wolgast by Duke Barnim I of Pomerania.
First mentioned as Banzyno. Banzyno was a small Wendish settlement on Lake Gothen. It was a Lehndorf of Herbertus Romele von Lessan. With the permission of Duke Barnim I of Pomerania, his widow exchanged it with the Grobe Monastery for another village. In the document about this Banzyno was officially mentioned for the first time.
First mentioned as Zelenyn. Zelenyn, a small village on the Schmollensee inhabited by fishermen, was donated to the Grobe Monastery by Duke Barnim I of Pomerania "since divine omnipotence wants it".
The Grobe Premonstratensian monastery near Usedom was relocated to Pudglowe (Pudagla) in 1309. Duke Barnim I of Pomerania also donated this village to the monastery in 1273 "to blot out his sins and the sins of his ancestors".
First mentioned as Nyge Krog. In a document issued by Duke Wartislaw IV of Wolgast about the extent of Pudagla's property, Neukrug was named as Tavern Nyge Krog as the eastern border on the Baltic Sea beach.
First mentioned as Chotin. The Pudagla Monastery and the city of Usedom had agreed on their ownership after a long dispute. A document on this was issued on April 7, 1342. One of the witnesses was "dominus Rodolfus miles dictus de Chotin (Mr. Rodolfus knight named von Chotin)".
Under the Pomeranian dukes Philip I of Wolgast and Barnim IX. Stettin decided to introduce the Reformation.
In 1535 the monastery of Pudagla was secularized and became a ducal domain. In 1574, Duke Ernst Ludwig of Pomerania Wolgast had a widow's seat built for his mother on the monastery grounds.
As a result of the peace negotiations in Münster and Osnabrück, Pomerania was divided between Sweden and Brandenburg. Sweden received Western Pomerania with Stettin, Usedom, Rügen and a strip of land east of the Oder.
In the Swedish land register (cadastre of the Swedish government) a "noble sack farm" named Neuhof was recorded, which belonged to the manor Mellenthin.
A watermill was built on the western side of the Beek. The land belonged to the manor of Mellenthin. The first settlers were a miller, a tar distiller and a fisherman with their families. In reference to the eel fishing practiced in the Beek, the settlement was called Ahlbeck.
At the end of the Great Northern War in the Peace of Stockholm, Prussia acquired the island of Usedom and Western Pomerania up to the Peene. Western Pomerania north of the Peene remained with Sweden.
After the Great Northern War, the country was economically devastated, and reconstruction was the priority. This also included the amelioration (reclaiming of wasteland, increase in value of the land) of the Thurbruch and the draining of the meadows on the Beek, with which Frederick II of Prussia had commissioned the Privy Finance Councilor Franz Balthasar von Brenkenhoff. In order not to jeopardize its success, colonists were settled on the eastern bank of the Beek, i.e. on domain territory. They were tasked with keeping the Beek clean. The settlement was called Ahlbeck royal share to distinguish it from the settlement on the western side of the Beek - Ahlbeck noble.
The efforts of the residents of Ahlbeck royal were not enough. The areas on the Beek continued to be flooded. Now, at the instigation of Brenkenhoff's Privy Finance Council, the water mill on the Beek has been dismantled in order to finally stop waterlogging the land.
In 1780, the name Ahlbeck "noble share" and Ahlbeck "royal share" officially came into use for both villages.
The village of Gothen, which belonged to the Mellenthin estates, was converted into an outwork, and the farmers were resettled in Neuhof.
The Congress of Vienna marked the end of the wars of liberation against Napoleonic rule and brought Swedish Pomerania to Prussia as New Western Pomerania.
The brothers Ernst Gottfried von Bülow-Cummerow and Georg Bernhard von Bülow-Rieth bought the Gothen estate from the bankrupt estate of the Mellenthin manor. These included the farming village of Neuhof, the fishing colony of Neukrug and the fishing village of Ahlbeck aristocratic. They began scouring the coastal forest and discovered the beauty of the landscape. From 1818 they began to allocate small plots of land near the beach to cottagers (small-scale owners with their own house). They were probably the ones who started fishing for herring here.
The drainage of the Thurbruch via the Aal-Beek still proved to be insufficient. The new chief president of the province of Pomerania, Johann August Sack, ordered the construction of a canal that would lead from the northern shore of Lake Gothen via the silted-up eastern Schloonsee to the Baltic Sea. Sack had bought the strip of land required for this from the owners of the Gothen estate – the von Bülow brothers – for 5.800 thalers, of which 4.940 thalers had been taken over by the state treasury. The canal was named after its builder. It still serves its purpose today.
The founding of Neu Sallenthin goes back to a decree by the Royal Prussian government in Stettin in February 1818. According to this, farmers in the village of Sallenthin were supposed to own most of the land they had previously cultivated and be freed from services and burdens - a result of the Stein-Hardenberg reforms. The affected farmers had to give up areas on the two Krebssees, which were divided into small plots. Interested parties were able to purchase them on August 20, 1818 at an auction from the Pudagla state domain.
The naming of Heringsdorf is closely related to a trip by King Friedrich Wilhelm III. of Prussia together. He had planned his inaugural visit to Neu Vorpommern, which had been assigned to Prussia in the Congress of Vienna, for June. It was intended that the king should inspect Herr von Bülow's herring fishery, the Sack Canal and the afforestation of the Streckelsberg. On June 5, 1820, Princes Wilhelm and Carl took the path along the beach in front of the king and inspected the herring packing plant. In their presence, a plaque with the name "Heringsdorff" was erected in front of the packing house. The king, who came on June 7th, approved of this name. The place name was officially confirmed in the Official Gazette of the Royal Government of Szczecin No. 30 of July 31, 1820.
The so-called Engelhardt'sche map was published. It was the first time that Heringsdorf was on a map. Both Ahlbeck (noble and royal) on the left and right of the Beek can also be found on the map.
The neighboring town of Świnoujście had become a bathing resort and there was also building activity in Heringsdorf, which formed the basis for the emergence of a seaside resort. Georg Bernhard von Bülow had a ladies' and a men's pool built and a community center on the 34 m high Kulm. This contained a hall in which more than 60 people could dine. This was followed by a lodging house that could accommodate four families. Various private individuals built their own houses in Heringsdorf, where they spent the summer. Local fishermen also rented rooms to bathers. Heringsdorf flourished and in 1831 already had 12 houses with 67 permanent residents
Heringsdorf, which had developed into a well-known seaside resort, did not have a church. The increasing number of guests as well as the residents expressed the desire for their own church. The founder of the village, Georg Bernhard von Bülow, provided a suitable piece of land in the forest on the Kulm. The Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm IV also supported the idea and commissioned the Royal Court Architect Ludwig Persius to design it. This could not realize the construction. He died in 1845. The civil engineer Otto Baensch took over the execution. The neo-Gothic brick building was inaugurated in 1848.
In the middle of the 19th century there were already almost 500 inhabitants on both sides of the Aal-Beek. There were still two places, but gradually they grew together. The Ahlbeck teacher Johann Koch hosted the first guests in 1852. They were the children of the tenant farmer Holz from Stolpe with their governess. This visit marked the beginning of a long tradition as a seaside resort.
1872 - 1894
The upswing
The brothers Adelbert and Hugo Delbrück had the vision of expanding Heringsdorf into a lucrative and chic spa. When they learned that the Countess of Stolberg-Wernigerode, owner of the Gothen estate, wanted to sell part of their land near the beach, they saw an opportunity to realize this vision. As a German construction company, they acquired the town of Heringsdorf with all bathing establishments and part of the forest. With Berlin bankers, which included Oppenheim and Bleichröder, they founded the public limited company Seebad Heringsdorf, of which Hugo Delbrück became the first director.
The desire to travel by train from Berlin to the island inevitably arose with the expansion of the rail network in the 19th century. After much back and forth, the Ducherow - Stadt Usedom - Swinemünde line, which crossed the Peene with a swing bridge, was put into operation.
By royal decree of June 4, 1879, published on June 19, 1879 in the Official Gazette of the Government of Stettin, the colonies of Heringsdorf and Neukrug were separated from the independent estate of Gothen and became independent as a special municipality called "Seebad Heringsdorf".
From "Ahlbeck aristocratic share" and "Ahlbeck royal share" is by decree the municipality of Ahlbeck. The first mayor – called Schulze at the time – was Ernst Krüger. Baths, a pier and a church were built. Individual residents of Ahlbeck now erected contemporary villas. The expansion as a seaside resort flourished.
In Ahlbeck, a wooden platform was built over the beach and sea for viewing purposes - the forerunner of the pier that was expanded in 1898.
The Berlin councilor of commerce and typographer Hermann Berthold had a villa built in the style of neoclassicism in Heringsdorf. Of the many art-historical peculiarities, the gable mosaic "Bathing Graces" by the Italian Antonio Salviati is the most important. The villa is one of the most important monuments of resort architecture in the Baltic Sea region. After several changes of ownership, it was not until the 1920s that the name Villa Oechsler was established.
The Berlin banker Benoit Oppenheim was also one of the first builders in the seaside resort of Heringsdorf. Embedded in a park landscape, he had a villa built in the style of the Italian Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio. The villa later became a favorite motif of the German-American painter Lyonel Feininger.
The Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge in Heringsdorf was given its name in 1891 by an "imperial cabinet order". First, the 500-meter-long pier was built, before two years later the land-side pier with its turreted superstructures, colonnades, shops and restaurants followed. In 1902/03 it was expanded by adding the so-called Odin Bridge. At the top of the pier was a viewing platform with a restaurant. Here steamships left for Swinoujscie/Stettin, Rügen and Bornholm.
1894-1933
The blossom
On July 1, the Swinemünde–Heringsdorf railway line was inaugurated. The direct connection from Heringsdorf to the capital Berlin shortened the travel time considerably and brought the seaside resort an enormous increase in holiday guests.
For more than three decades, the cantor Johann Koch collected from locals and holidaymakers for his own church in Ahlbeck. The cornerstone was laid on July 22, 1894. The neo-Gothic church was consecrated on August 29, 1895.
It was a guest from Berlin and the Alt Sallenthin writer Ernst Necker who followed the development of the seaside resorts closely and took the initiative to found the seaside resort of Bansin. They joined forces with other interested parties to form a founding community, which applied to the Swinemünde Harbor Inspectorate for the construction of bathing establishments and, after approval, had two wooden bathhouses and four cane shacks built as resting places.
Shower and sea baths were administered in large washtubs in the warm baths. Today the administration of the municipality of Ostseebad Heringsdorf is located in this house.
The guests, who came to the beach in Bansin in increasing numbers, didn't just want to swim. They asked for accommodation, the construction of which was still being tackled in 1896. At the beginning of the 1897 season, the first houses were ready for occupancy and already accommodated 308 guests.
On the wooden platform erected in 1882, two opposing wooden structures were erected. They served as a restaurant and as a stage. The extension with a pier as a jetty was also carried out.
In 1898, the Strandcasino was built directly on the Heringsdorf Promenade - a "masterpiece of modern iron construction, with a viewing tower", as a chronicle from 1932 put it. Initially, it was also used as an official health resort. In addition to 18 elegant shops, it housed a 500 m² dance hall. In the summer of 1898, Heringsdorf already had 13.430 spa guests.
After Hugo Delbrück's death in 1900, his son Werner Delbrück became director of the public limited company Seebad Heringsdorf and continued his father's work. The passionate balloonist died on April 3, 1910 in a crash off the island of Rügen at the age of 43.
A monumental square tower made of boulders and bricks was built on the 45 m high President Hill. In the inner hall stood a 3,5 meter tall bronze statue of Bismarck, created by the well-known sculptor Ernst Gustav Herter. This followed the trend at the time to honor the former Chancellor. The tower was crowned by a huge brazier. The inauguration took place in 1907. However, on the orders of the Soviet Army, the Bismarck control room was blown up in 1946. Today only a few remains of the foundations of the mighty tower remain.
On the way from Heringsdorf to Gothen, the public limited company Seebad Heringsdorf had a horse racing track built based on the model of the well-known Karlshorst trotting track. Located on a slope, the spectators had a generous view over the extensive complex. A highlight of the 1909 season must have been the air show of the Wright brothers, who flew their rounds here with their "Kitty Hawk". The racecourse was only in operation until 1914. Today, nothing remains of the once sophisticated facility.
Below Heringsdorf there is a brine spring from which brine has been pumped since 1896. In 1927/28 the well builder Hermann Loeck drilled a new 408 meter deep well near the Heringsdorf pier, from which brine is still extracted today. It has a salinity of 4 percent.
Hans Werner Richter was born on November 12, 1908 in Neu Sallenthin. He was a German writer and also gained wide recognition as the initiator of "Group 47", the most important post-war West German writers' group. In his books "Stories from Bansin" and "Tracks in the Sand" he reported on his childhood in Bansin. He died on March 23, 1993 and was buried in the Bansin Cemetery.
The tea visits of Kaiser Wilhelm II to the widow Elisabeth Staudt in "Haus Miramar" in Heringsdorf were sensational and accompanied by all sorts of gossip. The Kaiser always drove up in an open convertible.
The expansion of the route beyond Heringsdorf to Wolgast ferry proved to be necessary and was designed as a single-track branch line. However, a straight route from Heringsdorf to Bansin affected the interests of the Heringsdorfer Aktiengesellschaft. She justified her refusal with the well-being of the guests, who could not be expected to accept the noise and soot from the trains. The new railway line had to be routed in an arc around President Hill. It was inaugurated with a festive ceremony on June 1, 1911.
Kaiser Wilhelm II had been thinking about building a children's holiday home on Usedom since 1910, where boys and girls from Berlin's working-class milieu could relax in the fresh forest and sea air. Appropriate wooden buildings were erected at the eastern end of Ahlbeck. In May 1913 the first small guests arrived. The Emperor himself carried out the official inauguration on June 14, 1913. A total of 150 boys and girls were able to leave the big city behind for four weeks from May to October.
Devastating storm floods have always visited the island of Usedom in winter. The one of December 29, 1913, which particularly affected Bansin, is mentioned here as representative of all of them. The water masses destroyed the new bathing establishments, the dunes, the fishermen's huts and most of the promenade with elementary violence.
On the former Świnoujście garrison drill and exercise ground at the Stettiner Haff, 8 km west of the village of Garz, there was a sufficiently large, flat area with a turf as a runway. An access road for automobiles was quickly erected, as were an air shed, crew tents, fuel depots and a telegraph system. On July 5, 1919, air traffic on the Berlin-Swinemünde airline was opened. This makes Garz-Heringsdorf one of the oldest civilian airfields in Germany.
Until now, bathing on the beaches of Usedom was only permitted within the area of the bathing establishments. Anyone who violated this had to pay a fine. After bathing outside of bathing establishments had already been approved in some places in the administrative district of Stralsund in 1923, a police ordinance appeared in the official gazette of the Prussian government in Stettin on June 14, 1924, according to which bathing from a beach chair or the dunes was also permitted in the seaside resorts of this administrative district - but only in bathing suits made of opaque fabric and at set times.
The space between the pier and the beach casino was redesigned in 1929. A new concert garden with music pavilion and fountain complemented the overall ensemble between the Kurhaus and Hotel "Atlantic", Strandcasino, Familienbad as well as the pier and the Solebrunnenhaus to one of the most impressive spa complexes of its time.
On Pentecost Sunday 1932, what is probably the most beautiful music pavilion on the island of Usedom was inaugurated on the Bansin beach promenade.
1933 - 1945
National Socialism
As early as 1925, Carl Martin Harder founded a beach chair factory in Wolgast. In 1933 he moved the company to Heringsdorf. To this day, Heringsdorf is the oldest still producing location for beach chair construction.
Heringsdorf in particular was shaped by Jewish tradespeople, well-known Jewish homeowners and guests. However, when the Nazis seized power, Jews were also systematically excluded from public life in the imperial baths. Many accommodations and entire seaside resorts advertised with anti-Semitic statements. From 1935 Jews were forbidden to use the beach.
The municipality of Bansin had a long barracks built behind what was then the pier and gave all Bansin fishermen a work and equipment room there. The fishing huts that had been spread all over the beach up to that point were cleared.
The foundation stone for the Bansin church, also known as the forest church, was laid. At that time it was the youngest church on the island of Usedom. It was built on the model of the Swinemünde Kreuzkirche, which no longer exists today. The inauguration took place on February 12, 1939. It is remarkable that the construction costs were borne solely by the municipality of Bansin.
In order to bring school children from war-threatening German cities to safety, they were often taken to so-called KLV camps with their classmates for several months. The need for camps continued to rise due to the increasing bombing of German cities from 1940 onwards. Between 1941-1945, many hotels in the imperial baths were converted into KLV camps.
On May 4, 1945, the Wehrmacht and the local leadership had left Heringsdorf in a hurry. During the occupation by the Red Army, Heringsdorf suffered no destruction or damage, only the Bismarck control room was blown up in 1946 for military reasons. During the occupation period until 1950, restricted areas were set up and numerous villas and hotels became the Red Army's sanatorium. Here Soviet officers could recover from the aftermath of the war.
1945 - 1990
The GDR era
A culture center was built in 1946 on behalf of the Soviet Military Administration (SMAD) for the beach casino that was destroyed by fire in February 1947. It included a representative theater hall with 750 seats and gastronomic facilities. The gable mosaic comes from the sculptor Karla Lucie Friedel. After the first guests were received in the new cultural center in 1948, SMAD transferred the building, which is now a listed building, to the municipality of Heringsdorf in 1950. After German reunification, it was privatized, renovated from 1993 and expanded in 1996 with the addition of a hotel to the "Forum Usedom". In 1997 the renovation of the theater hall was completed. A casino was housed in the former gastronomic areas from 1998-2014. There is now a fashion boutique and a restaurant there. Today, the theater hall is called the "Imperial Baths Hall" and, with its 665 m², is one of the largest and most beautiful event centers on the island of Usedom.
In 1950, the building used as a sanatorium was first handed over to the municipality and later to the Free German Trade Union Confederation (FDGB). Up until 1989, the allocation of accommodation and the care of the guests was almost exclusively carried out by the FDGB holiday service or so-called company holiday homes.
During the "Rose Operation" hotel and pension owners were expropriated in a cloak-and-dagger operation on flimsy grounds. These buildings were also handed over to the FDGB holiday service. In 1990 the expropriated hotels, guesthouses and villas were returned to their owners.
In 1954, the Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge burned down, initially on the water side. In 1958, caused by arson, the entrance area and shopping street also burned down. The planned reconstruction only came after German reunification.
After World War II, the number of fishermen increased sharply. From 1946 they organized themselves in several stages of development into fisheries production cooperatives (FPG), whose model statute was drawn up from 1955. In 1960 the three FPGs from Ahlbeck, Heringsdorf and Bansin merged to form the FPG “10. Anniversary” based in Ahlbeck. Until 1990, fishing was the most important manufacturing industry on the Usedom outer coast in terms of personnel.
The culture and catering center for FDGB holidaymakers and today a listed building cost 1,5 million marks. It has been empty since 2010. A comeback with tourist use as a "House of Experiences" is being planned.
The public observatory was created at the suggestion of the physicist and Heringsdorf regular guest Manfred von Ardenne. He gave the community the 10-inch reflecting telescope as a gift.
From 1968, residents of Bansin designed an exotic animal and plant exhibition. The popularity was so great that the facility was significantly enlarged and became a tourist attraction as a "tropical house".
In 1970, the listed building with the special "folding roof" was opened on the Heringsdorf beach promenade. It was designed by the renowned civil engineer Ulrich Müther, who shaped GDR architecture with various buildings.
The former hotel and spa "Atlantic" - from 1950 FDGB holiday home "Solidarity" - was so badly decayed in 1979 that it was blown up. By 1984, a supply center and two ten-storey prefabricated buildings that could accommodate 1.200 guests were built.
1990 - today
The new beginning
The renovation of the historic Ahlbeck pier for Loriot's film classic "Pappa ante portas" marked the beginning of a new tourist era. The final scene filmed on the pier caused a first major pan-German media interest for Ahlbeck and the island of Usedom.
After almost 40 years without a pier, a new, exclusively privately financed pier was inaugurated in Heringsdorf - about 50 meters from the previous building that burned down. At 508 meters it is the longest pier in Germany.
Threatened with closure after German reunification, UBB was able to develop into one of the most successful regional railways in Germany with around 1 million passengers a year when it took over the island railway traffic on June 1995, 3,6. The expansion of routes and stops, the repair of the historic station building and the development of regular bus services have made the Heringsdorf-based UBB one of the most important companies in the imperial spas.
In March 1996, the Ostseetherme was opened at the entrance to Ahlbeck, in which all six bathing pools are enriched with the iodine brine produced in Heringsdorf. The Ostseetherme has a spa center in which physiotherapeutic and medical treatments and cures prescribed by the spa doctor are administered. Since opening, more than 3,5 million visitors have been counted (as of 2021).
After the basic renovation of the operating facilities from 1993-1996, regular and charter traffic was taken up. Since then, there have been changing connections from Austria, Switzerland, Luxembourg, Poland and various major German cities during the season. With almost 45.000 passengers, 2014 was a peak year for the time being.
The award of the German Monument Prize to hotelier Gerhard Gühler and his Hotel zur Post in Bansin is representative of the restoration work after German reunification. From the years 1992/1993, a large part of the historical building structure of the imperial baths was repaired and literally saved from decay at the last minute.
Ahlbeck, Heringsdorf and Bansin were allowed to call themselves seaside health resorts. Seaside spas are special health resorts with a direct connection to the sea, in which the sea climate is used for therapeutic treatments. The local presence of a spa doctor for the prescription treatments is mandatory. The infrastructure of these places must offer sufficient opportunities for recreation. Seaside spas may levy tourist taxes. The “Seeheilbad” certificate is awarded by the German Health Baths Association.
In 2000, the former fire station in Bansin was converted into a memorial for the community's oldest son, the writer and initiator of "Group 47", Hans Werner Richter.
After the separate communities of Ahlbeck, Heringsdorf and Bansin had formed a joint spa association since 1995, the municipal merger of the three seaside resorts and their districts of Gothen, Alt Sallenthin, Neu Sallenthin and Sellin to form the municipality of Ostseebad Heringsdorf took place in 2005. The first mayor of the new municipality was Klaus Kottwittenborg.
The German-Polish border has been running east of the imperial baths since 1945. Until Poland joined the Schengen area in 2007, a wide border strip, fences and controls separated the German and Polish sides. With the end of border controls, the beach promenades of Ahlbeck and Świnoujście (Swinoujscie in German) were connected for 3,6 million euros. A 400 m² meeting platform was created on the former border. At 12 kilometers long, the continuous beach promenade in Bansin, Heringsdorf, Ahlbeck and Świnoujście is one of the longest in Europe.
In November 2016, the first spa and medicinal forest in Europe was handed over in Heringsdorf. Paths lead through an area of 187 hectares to places where the stimulating climate of sea and forest air can be consciously used as a local natural remedy with physical and meditative exercises.
One of the most modern tourist information centers in the Baltic Sea region was inaugurated in the former headquarters of the Seebad Heringsdorf public limited company. After decades of being locked, the armored door to the historic vault was also cracked open and made accessible to the public.
The Usedom treetop path was opened on June 1, 2021 between the train station and the former Bismarck control room in Heringsdorf. Its total length is 1.350 meters, the highest point of the observation tower is 33 meters. The treetop walk is used by around 250.000 visitors a year.
In 2023, the 31 display steles with accompanying app of the Kaiserbäder adventure trail were inaugurated. A key measure of the local tourism concept was implemented with the adventure trail.